Vulcan Bomber

Thursday, 17 December 2009

I was at the Alpine Club's Northern Lecture last night in Hathersage, where Steve Dean was talking about the life of Colin Kirkus. Steve wrote the biograhphy of Kirkus, published by Ernest Press as long ago as 1993 but it was the first time he had lectured on the great man, which was both surprising and a bit of a scoop for the AC. For those of us with an interest in climbing history there was plenty to think about, not least how ahead of its time the 1933 Gangotri expedition, which Kirkus joined, was in making the first ascent of Bhagirathi. That expedition was the subject of an article in Rock and Ice last year, if I can find a link to it I'll let you know. Afterwards in the pub, I talked with Colin Goodey, a doyen of Welsh climbing himself, who mentioned that Barry Brewster had done the first free ascent of Vulcan at Tremadog in 1962, just before he went to the Alps where he perished on the North Face of the Eiger. Apparently, another climber well ahead of his time, given that Vulcan is E4, or 5.11.

Posted by Ed Douglas at 4.28 PM